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By: Christina Mueller Welter
August 7,
2006
Special thanks to photographer Matthew Carden (website)

Clark Wolf
Moderated by Clark Wolf , an original
member of the San Francisco Food Society, now a contributor to Food
Arts, this event was comprised of luminous local food names. Amanda
Berne, Columnist at the San Francisco Chronicle, Jim Dodge,
Director of Specialty Culinary Programs at the Bon Appétit Management
Company, Duskie Estes, Co-Chef and Co-Owner of Zazu and Bovolo
restaurants, Traci Des Jardins, Chef/Owner of Jardinière and Mijita
restaurants, and Leslie Sbrocco, author, writer and host of the recent
KQED Check Please!, the panel was certainly well-seasoned and
full of great stories of how they got where they are now and with whose
help.

Jim Dodge
Jim Dodge was inspired by his family to
move across the country to work in restaurants. His restaurateur family
tried to push him out of the food business and into corporate. It never
“took”. Gaining physical distance, Jim focused on refining his craft –
pastry. Influenced by Marion Cunningham, who pushed him to write, and
Mary Risley who pushed him out of the kitchen. Jim spoke directly to the
audience by emphatically stating “ do not skip through
experience. Remember that it takes 5-6 years and is a long journey.” His
time at Stanford Court taught him the importance of building both
teamwork and mutual respect.

Amanda Berne
Amanda Berne spoke to the individuality of
the journey, and not always necessary to go to cooking school, “ but you
must have a passion for food and cookery as well as incredible
discipline, focus, and drive. Being in the business is something you
have to want”. She started working in kitchens at age 14 but found her
passion during an externship at the Chron during cooking school.

Leslie Sbrocco
Ms Sbrocco spoke of writing skills,
previously developed, later applied to wine. Rather than getting hung up
on a traditional route or putting experiences in a certain order, she
emphasized that you find your path if you are passionate and disciplined
in your work. She is able to reach consumers through writing rather than
a restaurant kitchen to help consumers understand that wine is fun.

Traci Des Jardins
Ms Des Jardins believes in formal training,
either with or without specific cooking school experience - she took a
semester off from college to work in Joachim Splichal’s kitchen and
subsequently spent the 80’s apprenticing as a chef. She never returned
to college. Her time spent with Joachim Splichal made her really tough –
his Patina kitchen was the epitome of the worst you have heard about
restaurant kitchens. That strict working environment provided a valuable
base for her to learn her own management style – and then become a
respected manager.

Marlena Spieler and Duskie Estes
Ms Estes recommended spending a year in a
formal kitchen before going to cooking school. She spent one semester
each at Brown and the CCA before working in various kitchens. There is
no substitute for the experience, which provides you with your own
culinary pedigree. She spoke of finding a mentor or role model to guide
and shape your experience. Hers’ was Tom Douglas of the Seattle
restaurant group Tom Douglas Catering and Events.

Guests enjoying delicious hors
d'oeuvres
Chef Patrick Clark of the Cliff House
restaurant provided a beautiful and wonderfully fresh hors d’oeuvres; fois gras terrine with lavender lavash was my personal favorite.

The Reception

Roberta Klugman

Katherine Pearson and Danielle
Forestier
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