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STP Panel Demystifies Food/Wine Dilemma
By Nancy Freeman


Panelists: Dr. Hildegarde Heymann, Tim Hanni, and Burke Owens

April Fools Day proved just the right occasion for the San Francisco Professional Food Society to take up the knotty issue of wine and food pairing—knotty because publication after publication insists that we must get our combinations just right; fools because the issue leaves so many of us feeling like them.

The setting was the glamorous Victor’s Palace of the Westin St. Francis with its soaring windows and period swags, the occasion was the second in the organization’s 2008 series of Stirring the Pots. Panel members included Dr. Hildegarde Heymann, UC Davis’s school of Enology and Viticulture sensory analyst; Tim Hanni, chef, Master of Wine and provocateur on all things wine-related; Jon Bonné, San Francisco Chronicle wine section editor and Burke Owens, formerly of Copia, now marketing director with Bonny Doon. The panel was moderated by our own Tim Patterson, wine writer and prizewinning home winemaker. (Full disclosure: Tim Patterson is also this writer’s husband.)

Dr. Heymann set the tone by summarizing the minimal scientific study done so far on the subject which proves that wine and food, when mixed together, influence each other—but only slightly. Her conclusion: what we think are good combinations are far more subjective than objective. Hanni agreed, using every element in his toolkit from graphics to wine history to an argument that no one shoe-size fits all. Bonné stood up for objectivity, insisting that some matches really do work better than others. Owens closed like a diplomat, arguing that basics like color, weight, sweet-versus-dry balance, age and alcohol-level matter, and the rest is up to the drinker.

Bonny Doon provided a delicious array of wines to match with foods from the St. Francis and chocolates from Chef’s Table Sponsor Guittard. Attendees tasted, matched and decided which combinations worked and which did not. They trusted their palates and were happy to know that the only rules they needed to follow were their own.



Jennie Schacht, Nancy Freeman, Nancy Kux, Kathleen Prisant Leonard, Joyce Jue - the Past and Present Presidents of the SFPFS


Ze'ev Vered - reciting a 'glossary' of wine adjectives and the Ongoing Events Chair, Kara Nielsen (on the right)



Victor's at The Westin St Francis



Victor's at The Westin St Francis






Burke Owens of Bonny Doon Vineyards


 
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