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Fire and Ice: Gelato event
March, 2008
by Peggy Fallon

Though the San Francisco Baking Institute resides in a nondescript business park in South San Francisco, the interior is dramatically different, sleek and gleaming with professional equipment, including a massive wood-burning oven. SFBI students and instructors presented a dazzling arrangement of handcrafted pastries and artisan breads for tasting.


San Francisco Baking Institute

Malcolm Stogo, an internationally recognized expert, led us through the theory and practice of all things gelato. (I knew he meant business from his pinky ring shaped like an ice cream cone.) While Stogo discussed the details of single origin and other specialty chocolates and cocoa powders to the gelato base, SFPFS member and Guittard Senior Scientist Thalia Hohenthal served as sous-chef and resident chocolate authority. Stogo poured the base mixture into a commercial Carpigiani batch freezer (costing the same as a used car), and then added a healthy dose of red wine to the churning gelato. You could have heard a marshmallow drop. The wine was Givich Vineyards cabernet, made by Ken Givich, Guittard’s Director of Microbiology.


Malcolm Stogo and his gelato machine


The just-churned gelato was poured into pans and whisked off to a freezer, as our attention turned to SFBI chef/instructor Brian Wood, who made a magical tart, beginning with chocolate pate sucrée, then a homemade Morello cherry gelee, macerated cherries, a silky chocolate cremeux, topped off with a “black chocolate” glaze and a garnish of shiny nougatine with cocoa nibs along with a few brandied cherries. Perfection.


Pastry Chef Brian Wood of the SFBI

Stogo revealed that gelato contains less butterfat than premium ice cream, so guilt-free, we proceeded to taste four unique chocolate gelati made earlier. The consensus? Wine-laced chocolate gelato is magical.


Thalia Hohenthal and  Malcolm Stogo

With dessert out of the way, we moved on to something savory. Guittard’s Micki Weinberg, an SFPFS member, helped SFBI students assemble an endless parade of pizzas for baking in the wood-fired oven. There were toppings like caramelized onions, kalamata olives, salami, whole milk mozzarella—we ate it all.


Micki Weinberg (rt) and Malcolm Stogo (middle) making pizza

Remember Chef Wood’s chocolate tart? Suddenly a tray of clones arrived, each cut into wedges to enjoy along with those last few sips of wine.

This was an SFPFS event that makes you grateful for your career choice: A delicious mix of continuing education, memorable food and wine, and the opportunity to converse with like-minded people. I’ll betcha things aren’t half as much fun at a mortgage brokers’ convention.


Malcolm Stogo, Ice Cream Consultant, Malcolm Stogo Associates AND Micki Weinberg (rt), Product Development & Culinary Applications, Guittard Chocolate Company


Thalia Hohenthal, Sr. Scientist R&D, Guittard Chocolate Company and the class at the SFBI


Robert Noel, Retail Sales Representative, Guittard Chocolate Company, making gelato


Malcolm Stogo in front of the group of members and guests at the SFBI


Mary Margaret Pack, food writer, food stylist, and private chef

 
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March 2008
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