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Fire and Ice: Gelato
event
March, 2008
by Peggy Fallon
Though the San Francisco Baking Institute resides in a
nondescript business park in South San Francisco, the interior is
dramatically different, sleek and gleaming with professional equipment,
including a massive wood-burning oven. SFBI students and instructors
presented a dazzling arrangement of handcrafted pastries and artisan
breads for tasting.

San Francisco Baking
Institute
Malcolm Stogo, an internationally recognized expert, led us through the
theory and practice of all things gelato. (I knew he meant business from
his pinky ring shaped like an ice cream cone.) While Stogo discussed the
details of single origin and other specialty chocolates and cocoa
powders to the gelato base, SFPFS member and Guittard Senior Scientist
Thalia Hohenthal served as sous-chef and resident chocolate authority.
Stogo poured the base mixture into a commercial Carpigiani batch freezer
(costing the same as a used car), and then added a healthy dose of red
wine to the churning gelato. You could have heard a marshmallow drop.
The wine was Givich Vineyards cabernet, made by Ken Givich, Guittard’s
Director of Microbiology.

Malcolm Stogo and his gelato
machine
The just-churned gelato was poured into pans and whisked off to a
freezer, as our attention turned to SFBI chef/instructor Brian Wood, who
made a magical tart, beginning with chocolate pate sucrée, then a
homemade Morello cherry gelee, macerated cherries, a silky chocolate
cremeux, topped off with a “black chocolate” glaze and a garnish of
shiny nougatine with cocoa nibs along with a few brandied cherries.
Perfection.

Pastry Chef Brian Wood of the
SFBI
Stogo revealed that gelato contains less butterfat than premium ice
cream, so guilt-free, we proceeded to taste four unique chocolate gelati
made earlier. The consensus? Wine-laced chocolate gelato is magical.

Thalia Hohenthal and Malcolm
Stogo
With dessert out of the way, we moved on to something savory. Guittard’s
Micki Weinberg, an SFPFS member, helped SFBI students assemble an
endless parade of pizzas for baking in the wood-fired oven. There were
toppings like caramelized onions, kalamata olives, salami, whole milk
mozzarella—we ate it all.

Micki Weinberg (rt) and
Malcolm Stogo (middle) making pizza
Remember Chef Wood’s chocolate tart? Suddenly a tray of clones arrived,
each cut into wedges to enjoy along with those last few sips of wine.
This was an SFPFS event that makes you grateful for your career choice:
A delicious mix of continuing education, memorable food and wine, and
the opportunity to converse with like-minded people. I’ll betcha things
aren’t half as much fun at a mortgage brokers’ convention.

Malcolm Stogo, Ice Cream
Consultant, Malcolm Stogo Associates AND Micki Weinberg (rt), Product
Development & Culinary Applications, Guittard Chocolate Company

Thalia Hohenthal, Sr. Scientist
R&D, Guittard Chocolate Company and the class at the SFBI

Robert Noel, Retail Sales
Representative, Guittard Chocolate Company, making gelato

Malcolm Stogo in front of the
group of members and guests at the SFBI

Mary Margaret Pack, food
writer, food stylist, and private chef |
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