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By Tim Patterson
The Livermore Wine Country is
a) hot as blazes—they pretty much cook their grapes out there;
b) able to make decent white wines, but not reds; or
c) dead in the water—a region time has passed by.
The correct answer: “None of the Above,” as 20 Food Society members and
guests learned in tasty detail Saturday June 23rd. Talking and tasting
at Les Chênes, Livermore’s newest winery, our delegation got the
straight story from Carolyn Wente (representing Murrieta’s Well, a label
owned by the Wente family), Thomas Coyne (of Thomas Coyne Winery, natch),
Dane Stark of Page Mill and host Richard Dixon of Les Chênes.

Wines from Murrieta's Well
The
session began like a meteorology seminar. The image of Livermore as far
too hot for making fine wine is simply not true, we learned—or if
Livermore is too hot, Napa is off the charts. Both Livermore and Napa
have multiple meso-climates, but taken overall they’re quite similar in
terms of growing season temperatures. For the record, on the day of the
event, the high in Livermore was 77º; the high in St. Helena 85º.
Livermore has a proud history—starting with California’s first-ever
Grand Prize at an international competition in 1889 and carrying through
on a par with any part of the state into the 1950s. The Napa wine
revolution of the 1960s and 1970s—half winemaking, half marketing—left
everyone else in the dust for a time. But now with 38 wineries and
counting, Livermore is a player again, for anyone who takes the time to
check it out.

The wines spoke for themselves, though the winemakers added some
interesting comments of their own. Most of the wines were red, all of
them found enthusiastic fans, and all of them were rationally priced, a
refreshing surprise in today’s wine market. There was an illuminating
discussion about the difficulties faced by small producers—most
Livermore wineries make under 5,000 cases a year—in a non-glamour
region. By the end of the afternoon, the solution to that problem was
obvious: buy more Livermore wine.
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