 |
 |
|||||
 |
 |
         |
||||
 |
 |
 |
||||
  Upcoming
Events
|
Stirring the Pot Decoding Molecular Gastronomy by Christina Mueller Welter Photos courtesy Kelly Burgoyne November 5, 2007 Elizabeth Cawdry Thomas, whose idea brainstorm kick-started the Molecular Gastronomy movement and who set up the first workshop on Molecular and Physical Gastronomy in 1992 in Sicily, was recognized by the SFPFS for her contribution to the field. Elizabeth passed away just days before this event. The event was dedicated to her memory and her significant contribution to today’s food. The Newest New Nouvelle Cuisine  Speakers Harold McGee, Mark Dommen of One Market, Elizabeth Falkner of Citizen Cake, Citizen Cupcake and the soon-to-be-opened Orson and Daniel Patterson of Coi. A star-studded panel of chefs and food scientist Harold McGee were on-hand last Monday night at the offices of Ketchum Public Relations to help San Francisco food professionals debunk the myth of molecular gastronomy as whiz-bang, chemically-influenced, as-far-from-the-field-as-it-gets food. Quite the contrary, in fact, as McGee and the chefs Mark Dommen of One Market, Daniel Patterson of Coi and Elizabeth Falkner of Citizen Cake (and soon, Orson) made clear.  Harold McGee signs his book, the revised On Food and Cooking, and chats with admirers. McGee spoke first and provided a story-arc for the movement. While Spain’s Ferrán Adriá was and continues to be hugely influential and the food press focuses on the “gimmicks” of molecular gastronomy, the reality is that innovation and creativity in professional kitchens is nothing new. The term “molecular gastronomy”, however, is very much new and in vogue. In fact, McGee continued, it is a Chef’s job to innovate, to come up with new ideas and techniques. Adriá “pioneered” the movement in 1988, preceding the physicists meeting in Sicily by four years. Adriá and his English counter-part, Heston Blumenthal, are often referred to as the Fathers of Molecular Gastronomy, but neither is comfortable with the accolade. Blumenthal openly states that he riffs on cooking techniques he found in an 1879 English book on ice cream and McGee mentioned an 1821 cookery book called Culinary Chemistry as a cornerstone or foundation of current cookery. “Cooking is innovation and excellence driven. Science is the tool.”  Daniel Patterson shows off his new book Aroma: the Magic of Essential Oils in Food and Fragrance. In turn, each of the chefs spoke to their use of these materials in the kitchen then followed-up their words with actions. Xanthan gum, agar, guar gum, lecithin and other materials were deconstructed for the audience’s benefit. Falkner uses xanthan gum, for example, because it does not “sweat” which makes it a better binder than say, gelatin, and produces a finished product with more moisture. This naturally-occurring substance, made from the outer layer of the tiny inactive bacterium called Xanthomonas campestris, is familiar to those who cannot eat gelatin or eggs (vegans), and brings a new audience to Falkner’s restaurants.  Elizabeth Falkner demonstrates the use of agar to make a caramel sauce for her sous-vide chocolate cake. Agar, derived from seaweed, another binder favored by practitioners of the movement, has been widely used in Asia for centuries as, similarly to xanthan gum, it can better withstand heat and humidity than binders traditionally used in western kitchens. These “new” products and a penchant for innovation enabled Falkner to deconstruct pastry and move the different elements of a dessert to new places on the plate. Falkner presented a dessert where the agar-blended caramel was firm enough to shape into tendrils atop her agar and sous-vide chocolate cake.  Mark Dommon creates a lemon-olive oil emulsion for his sous-vide chicken. Sous-vide (“under vacuum”), another not-so-new cooking technique (invented in the 1970’s in France), was designed to maintain the integrity of the ingredients by heating them at low temperature over a long time period. It took until the 1990s for this cooking method to achieve wide use in American restaurants. Every chef spoke to the idea that their craft – cooking - is fundamentally about connecting with customers. The new techniques of the Molecular Gastronomy movement help them to preserve the integrity of the ingredient and create a sense of specialness. It is possible for chefs to play with textures and techniques in a way that was not possible before while maintaining an ingredient’s integrity. The addition of an egg or of cream to a dish to achieve that silky texture is no longer required and the flavor is not dampened. It is lightened and made more delicate.  Falkner's sous-vide chocolate cake with caramel sauce and cocoa-nib explosion with samples. Foam, the essence of lightness and the eternal punching bag for customers who disparage the movement, is often nothing more than an emulsion. As Dommen said: “People just think that emulsions are foams.” Patterson further clarified: “Foam is a touchstone, it represents to many people that we have lost touch with our cultural traditions. But the reality is that sabayon (a light, frothy dessert made with egg yolks, wine and sometimes cream) [sic] is a foam.” Texture and taste will continue to drive what chefs put on their menus. Perceived by many as labor-intensive and fussy, every chef mentioned that the addition of these techniques in their kitchen does not increase their staffing needs one iota. The foundation techniques of cookery are still the most important tools in a chef’s toolkit. Molecular Gastronomy adds a new dimension to that toolkit but does not replace it.  Triple chocolate dessert from Gold sponsor Guittard. In sum, Molecular Gastronomy is not so new. It does have a new name and it allows chefs to create new textures and whisper-light flavors previously not seen – a boon to individuality and creativity. It is all about the cooking. It always has been. May the Bay Area find room in its generous heart for this creative and fun movement!  Linda Carucci, Nancy Kux and Gary Arsham taste cheeses donated by Bronze sponsor Cheeseworks West.  Fudge brownies with Cherries and white chocolate from Ketchum Chef Catherine Pantsios.  Elizabeth Falkner signs her new book "Demolition Desserts: Recipes from Citizen Cake."  Guest Deirdre O'Shea, San Francisco Magazine Food Editor Jan Newberry, Gold sponsor Kelly Burgoyne and Food Society President Nancy Freeman pose for a photo op.  Mini roast beef sandwiches provided by Gold sponsor Ketchum's Pantsios.  A royal spread of cheeses provided by Cheeseworks West. |
List of Recent Events August 2008 Coffee Cupping June 2008 Honey Tasting SIG June 2008 Food Writing Book Club SIG June 2008 Digs Bistro June 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Showdown May 2008 A Visit to Careme 350 May 2008 Cooking Teachers SIG May 2008 San Mateo Members Meet May 2008 South Bay Members Connect April 2008 Wine SIG takes a Beaujolais Cruise April 2008 Demystifying the Food/Wine Dilemma March 2008 Pasta tasting
March 2008
February 2008
June 2007
June 2007
January 2007
January 2006
September 19, 2005
June 22, 2005
May 25, 2005
May 18. 2005
April 28, 2005
February 15, 2005
October 22, 2004
July 12, 2004
May 17, 2004 |
||||
|
|
||||||
 |
 |
|||||
| Home | About SFPFS | Become a Member | Calendar/Events | Resources/Links | Member Services | Newsletter | Food in Perspective | Contact Us | ||||||