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by Tim Patterson
You’ve
probably enjoyed the wines of Ridge Vineyards, and you undoubtedly know
about the wines and the antics of Randall Grahm at Bonny Doon. What you
may not know is that the Santa Cruz Mountains are home to sixty
wineries, including several that can hold their own with any producer in
the state. It’s a treasure trove of fine wine, right under our Bay Area
noses, and well worth checking out.
That was certainly the conclusion of the two dozen SFPFS members and
guests who braved two miles of twisty dirt road Sunday afternoon, April
22, for a tasting at Mount Eden Vineyards. The Mount Eden property is
hallowed ground in the history of California winemaking. It’s in the
heart of the vineyard land first made famous by Paul Masson, the
Burgundian immigrant who raised the bar for California wine in the early
20th century: and it was here that Martin Ray, a visionary (and, yes,
eccentric) winemaker blazed a trail of premium grapegrowing and
winemaking from the 1940s through the 1960s.

Mount Eden Vineyards winemaker Jeffrey Patterson explains
the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA as SFPFS member Victoria Green drinks it
in. Photo courtesy Frank Dietrich.
Mount Eden’s current winemaker, Jeffrey Patterson, led off the tasting
with an overview of the history of the area and the distinguishing
characteristics of the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA (a legally defined
American Viticultural Area). While the AVA covers hundreds of square
miles, most of it is vertical, and all of it is above the fog line,
about 600 feet above sea level. For all the expanse of gorgeous scenery,
there are only about 800 acres of grape vines—many of the area’s
wineries rely in large part on grapes purchased from other regions.
What came through as Patterson and the other winemakers—Nathan Kandler
of Thomas Fogarty, Tony Craig of Savannah Chanelle and Sonnet, and Brian
Casselden of Woodside Vineyards—led us through the region and their
wines was an attitude, a passion for winemaking and a dedication to
teasing the best out of grapes grown under trying conditions and far
away from the spotlight of consumer frenzy some other wine regions bathe
in. Among the wines tasted (all from Santa Cruz grapes) were two that
were ten years old and showing nicely, and two that had not yet been
released—the Food Society got the first public tastes.
Martin Ray would have been proud of his successors.
Next up in the Local Wine Tour series: What you don’t know about
Livermore Valley wines.
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List of Recent Events
August 2008
Coffee Cupping
June 2008
Honey Tasting SIG
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Digs Bistro
June 2008
Sauvignon Blanc Showdown
May 2008
A Visit to Careme 350
May 2008
Cooking Teachers SIG
May 2008
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South Bay Members Connect
April 2008
Wine SIG takes a Beaujolais Cruise
April 2008
Demystifying the Food/Wine Dilemma
March 2008
Pasta tasting
March 2008
Cooking Teachers' SIG
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Traveling Table to Ubuntu
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Gelato Making
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Best of Show Cabernet Sauvignons
January 2008
AGM 2008
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Cooking SIG at Ramekins
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Stirring the Pot: Future of Chinese Cuisine
December 2007
Marmalade tasting
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Wine SIG samples sparklers
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United States of Arugula review
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Decoding Molecular Gastronomy
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Career Change Roundtable
October 2007
B Star Bar
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Barbary BBQ on Maiden Lane
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Vanilla Tasting
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June 2007
Wine SIG Rosé Tasting
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Tasting Sig Explores Fetas
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Dinner at B Restaurant
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An Evening with Jaques Pepin
April 2007
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Feasting at Chef Chus
Annual General Meeting
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Traveling Table: Radio Africa and Kitchen
December 2006
Holiday Cookie Exchange
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Stirring the Pot with Chuck Williams
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SFPFS Barbeque on the USS Hornet
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Stirring the Pot: Building your Culinary
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Antony Bourdain at the Commonwealth Club
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Expo West 2006
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The Annual General Meeting
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Stirring the Pot: The History,
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June 22, 2005
Stirring the Pot with Nell Newman,
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Brentwood Agricultural Land Trust
Fundraising Dinner
May 18. 2005
Philippe Stark and Michel Rolland
at the SF W Hotel
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Roundtable: The Food and Culture of
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February 15, 2005
Stirring the Pot with Harold McGee
October 22, 2004
Food Fight! A Lively Discussion of Today's Most Challenging Food Choices
July 12, 2004
Blenheim Apricot Food Tour
May 17, 2004
Stirring the Pot: A Conversation with Hubert Keller, Michael Mina and
Bradley Ogden
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Stirring the Pot: A Conversation with Gerald Asher
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SFPFS Traveling Table goes to New Delhi Restaurant
January 26, 2004
AGM / NMR Review
November 10, 2003
Reel Food - Castro Theatre
September 25, 2003
Food Tour - Heritage Fruit Orchard at Filoli Gardens
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Rick Knoll on Organic Farming
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A Conversation with Thomas Keller: The Soul of Haute Cuisine in America
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The SFPFS Traveling Table - Roxanne's in Larkspur
April 28, 2003
Stirring the Pot: A Conversation with Marian Burros and Marion
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March, 2003
Stirring the Pot: A Conversation with Marion Nestle
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